News

It’s a weekday afternoon, and we’re a little lost in the heart of a Macpherson industrial estate, trying to locate a diner called Dolphins’ Restaurant. Thankfully, our search ends when we spot a neon sign for the near the entrance of a drab Everich Industrial Building at Genting Lane. 1 18 The eatery is located on the seventh – and top – floor. A vintage sign board featuring clip art images of dolphins assures us that we’re in the right place. Figurines of the marine mammal are on display in the entryway, leaving no doubt about the restaurant’s namesake. To our amusement, there remains a mishmash of old Chinese New Year decor hanging around. 2 18 Inside, the 60-seat dining room exudes nostalgia with a nautical hint. An anchor hangs on the wall, while wooden beams line the ceiling. Tall, spacious booths are tucked along the perimeter. Inexplicably, a row of lamp posts separates the banquettes from the table seating, adding to the quirky ambience. The decor, with its gaudy cushion seats and carpeting, evokes memories of our childhood visits to old hotel coffee houses. According to the owners, the interior has remained largely unchanged since it first opened its doors in 1986. 3 18 Family-owned since its inception, Dolphins’ Restaurant was founded by Dorothy Goh, 70, who named the place after her favourite animal. “I love dolphins, they’re cute!” she enthuses. Her son, Jason Siew, 49, who has been helping out at the restaurant since he was a teen, officially joined the family business in 2000. 4 18 “Back then, this area only had some canteens. My mum thought that there was potential in opening a restaurant here where the SME bosses could bring their clients. We also wanted a bigger space [for the kitchen] as we’re in the catering business too,” explains Jason. The second-generation restaurateur recalls distributing advertising flyers in the area when he was younger. “It was definitely a challenge at the start [to attract customers]. Even today, when you drive past [Genting Lane], you’d never know there’s a restaurant here,” he says. Dorothy’s intuition proved right, and the restaurant became a popular spot among workers in the area. When asked to pinpoint the key to her restaurant’s success, which has stood the test of time despite its inconspicuous location and minimal social media presence, the humble matriarch attributes it to luck.  “Over the years, we’ve welcomed three generations of customers. We have customers who had their full month celebration here come back [to dine as adults]. That makes me very happy,” she shares cheerfully. 5 18 The family once operated other concepts, including casual Western diner Mignon’s Steak & Grill (which earned a favourable review from – see above pic) and Fisherios Fish N Chips at Takashimaya basement. Both eateries eventually closed to make way for the mall’s Japanese-themed food hall. Located in a shophouse at Jalan Selaseh in Yio Chu Kang, Dolphins’ Tavern offers a similar menu of Western food as well as exclusive Peranakan dishes like ayam buah keluak and babi pongteh. Interestingly, the newer outlet boasts a retro interior design inspired by the flagship restaurant. For similar offerings, prices are aligned closely to those at Dolphins’ Restaurant.  Besides these restaurant ventures, Dorothy and Jason also run a catering business named Phin’s, which is primarily led by the latter.  6 18 The business is in good hands Dorothy feels confident in her son’s ability to lead the restaurant into the future. “Yes, it’s in good hands,” she affirms, expressing her desire to “semi-retire” soon. Meanwhile, Jason is grateful for her continued involvement. “She likes to move around; she can’t stay at home all the time. She’s still the person who calls the shots here lah,” he shares. 7 18 The menu Dolphins’ Restaurant offers a set menu available for both lunch and dinner, featuring classic Western dishes such as steaks, fish and chips and pork chops – most of these are priced below $30. All sets come with free-flow soup of the day, garlic bread, coffee or tea and dessert. 8 18 We tried the cream of mushroom soup and liked its silky texture and comforting, earthy flavour. The toasted garlic bread is fresh, fluffy and tastier than average. There’s also an a la carte selection with more atas options like scallop and escargot appetisers and grilled meat platters. The kitchen is helmed by veteran chefs who have been with the restaurant for decades. 9 18 Free-flow soup of the day, coffee & tea provided Customers who order from the set menu can help themselves at the self-service station offering free-flow soup and coffee or tea. Jason explains: “Our kitchen prepares food a la minute, so sometimes you may need to wait about half an hour for your main course. So we introduced [free-flow soup and drinks] to make the wait more bearable.” From the set menu: 10 18 Fish & Chips, $16.90  The standard dory fillet is fried to order in a light, crispy breaded crust and served with chips, salad and house-made tartare sauce. Not bad, but we prefer the… 11 18 Beer Battered Fish & Chips, $21.90 (8 DAYS Pick!) Coated in a superbly crunchy beer batter developed by Dorothy, this option uses the pricier halibut, which boasts a beautifully moist, flaky and almost buttery texture that justifies the price difference. 12 18 Succulent Ribeye Steak (230g), $30.90 (8 DAYS Pick!) Served sizzling on a 40-year-old cast iron plate, our slab of USDA steak is juicy, tender and perfectly smoke-tinged. Simply paired with rich black pepper sauce, baked potato and veggies, this is classic, old-school Western fare at its best. 13 18 Naturale Pork Rack, $29.90 (8 DAYS Pick!) A pork chop isn’t our usual order at a Western diner, as we’ve often been disappointed by tough, chewy meat, or worse, an unpleasant odour. Thankfully, our bone-in, minimally seasoned Swiss pork comes skillfully grilled with a good char, and is so succulent that you can eat it on its own, without any condiments. If you want more flavour, however, try the tangy house-made barbecue sauce. 14 18 Spaghetti Aglio Olio with Prawn, $18.90  Al dente pasta tossed with prawns, mussels, fish and capsicum. Decent, but not as impressive as the meat dishes.  From the a la carte menu: 15 18 Half Dozen Baked Scallop with Cream Sauce, $17.90 (8 DAYS Pick!) Doused with a slightly zingy cream sauce, the shellfish is plump and grilled to impeccably tender sweetness. A great option to start your meal with. 16 18 Half Dozen Escargot, $12.90 A standard take on the classic appetiser. Generously slicked in garlic butter and topped with cream sauce, the snails are delicate and flavourful. 17 18 Bottom line Is Dolphins’ Restaurant worth the trek to an industrial park? Sure, if you’re willing to overlook the somewhat haphazard, less refined decor compared to other retro Western-style diners like Shashlik. The restaurant makes up for its lack of sophistication with no-frills, old-school localised Western grub that hits the spot, warm service and homely vibes. We’re already planning to bring our parents here for the nostalgic experience. Here’s hoping the quirky space stays the same for years to come. 18 18 The details  Dolphins’ Restaurant is at #07-01 Everich Industrial Building, 81 Genting Ln, S349566. Open daily except Sun, 11am – 9pm. Tel: 6744 2848. Photos: Aik Chen & Dolphins’ Restaurant