Locanda @ Rowell Road (Jalan Besar) - A Cosy Italian Trattoria Offering Hearty Classics
- by autobot
- Sept. 5, 2024
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Locanda is a delightful new Italian trattoria nestled in the vibrant heritage district of Little India. Conceptualized by the Michelin-starred team behind Buona Terra, Locanda exudes the warmth and charm of a classic Italian "inn." In the past, locandas in Italy were places where weary travellers could find refuge and refuel with simple, hearty meals. Locanda brings this tradition to life in Singapore with a menu filled with comforting Italian classics.
Locanda Soft Roll with Eggplant, Tomato Dip 4.2/5
We began the evening with the Locanda Soft Roll with Eggplant, Tomato Dip ($8). The bread was warm, soft, and buttery, making it the perfect pairing with the tangy, flavourful eggplant and tomato dip. It was a simple yet satisfying start to our meal.
Gnocco Fritto E Affettati 3.5/5
Next, we moved on to the Gnocco Fritto E Affettati ($15/50g of selected cold cuts). The Gnocco Fritto — golden-brown fried dough puffs — was an absolute delight. The crispy exterior gave way to a soft, airy interior, which paired beautifully with the selection of classic Italian cold cuts.
Focaccia Bread, Casera Cheese, Lardo, Hazelnuts, Truffle, Honey 4/5
Focaccia, Scamorza, Black Pepper, Grilled Zucchini 4/5
We had the pleasure of trying two variations of focaccia, starting with the Focaccia Bread, Casera Cheese, Lardo, Hazelnuts, Truffle, Honey ($18). Topped with melted Casera cheese, lardo, and toasted Piedmont hazelnuts, it was finished with a drizzle of truffle honey and shaved black truffle. Every bite was a symphony of creamy, nutty, and earthy flavours.
The second version, Focaccia with Scamorza, Black Pepper, Grilled Zucchini ($18), was equally delightful. The smoky Scamorza cheese paired with the fresh crunch of grilled zucchini and a hint of black pepper. Both focaccia options were so good that I honestly couldn't choose a favourite.
Deep Fried Marinated Sardine, Onion and Raisin 4.2/5
One of the standouts for me was the Deep-Fried Marinated Sardine, Onion, and Raisin ($22). Deep-fried and marinated in vinegar, the sardines were served atop a crispy fried polenta base, accompanied by braised onions, raisins, pine nuts, and a hint of mint. It was a perfect blend of sweet, savoury, and tangy flavours.
Yellowtail, Lemon, Fennel Oil 3.8/5
We also tried the Yellowtail, Lemon, Fennel Oil ($28), a light and clean dish featuring fresh slices of yellowtail dressed with a bright lemon dressing and a sprinkle of sea salt. The charred orange segments added a hint of bitterness that balanced the dish beautifully, while the fennel oil provided an aromatic finish.
Veal Eye Round, Tuna Sauce and Capers Berry 4/5
The Veal Eye Round ($24) is a boneless cut from the rear leg of the calf that's first sous-vide, then seared to perfection in the pan. It's thinly sliced and served with a classic tonnato sauce, then garnished with a drizzle of olive oil, salt, and caper berries. The dish is understated, focusing on the pure tenderness of the veal and its mild, delicate flavour. It's a straightforward preparation that highlights the quality of the meat without unnecessary embellishments, perfect for those who enjoy simple yet expertly executed dishes.
Tagliolini, Fresh Tomato, Crab, Lemon 4.2/5
When it comes to pasta, Locanda does not disappoint. The Tagliolini, Fresh Tomato, Crab, Lemon ($28) was one of my favourites, featuring perfectly cooked tagliolini in a sweet and tangy tomato sauce with generous chunks of crab and a zesty hint of lemon. It reminded me of a refined version of Singapore's chilli crab but with pasta — a real treat for seafood lovers.
Pappardelle Ragu Genovese, Mix Mushrooms 4.2/5
The Pappardelle Ragu Genovese, Mixed Mushrooms ($24) was another excellent option. The wide, ribbon-like pasta was coated in a rich, hearty beef ragu made from different cuts of Australian beef, slow-braised until tender. The addition of braised mushrooms added depth to the dish, creating a perfect balance of flavours and textures.
Malloreddus, Red Wine Octopus Ragu, Capers 3.8/5
We tried the Malloreddus, Red Wine Octopus Ragu, Capers ($28) for something a bit different. The shell-like pasta had a pleasant bite, and the octopus ragu was flavorful and rich, elevated by the capers' briny punch.
Spaghetti ai Frutti di Mare 4.5/5
I recommend the Spaghetti ai Frutti di Mare ($118++) for larger groups, which is good for up to 4 people. This seafood pasta was tossed in a luscious tomato sauce and topped with an assortment of sautéed seafood, including clams, lobster, scampi, and red prawns. A seafood lover's dream!
Secreto Iberico Pork, Braised Endive, Apple 4.2/5
The Secreto Iberico Pork, Braised Endive, Apple ($39) stood out among the mains. The Iberico pork was beautifully glazed with pork jus, honey, and spices, then grilled over binchotan for a smoky, caramelized exterior. The tender meat was perfectly complemented by the slightly bitter braised endives and sweet apple sauce.
Hanging Tender, Rucola & Parmesan 4.2/5
We also tried the Hanging Tender, Rucola & Parmesan ($42). The lesser-known cut of beef was simply seasoned with salt and grilled to perfection, served with beef jus, a peppery rucola salad, and shavings of Parmesan. It was a no-frills dish that allowed the beef's rich, natural flavour to shine.
Gelati & Sorbetti 4/5
To finish, we had a scoop of Gelati & Sorbetti ($9/scoop). While the pistachio and chocolate gelati were delicious, I found them a bit pricey for the portion size. However, the real star of the dessert menu was the Sicilian Cannolo ($15/2pc). Each cannolo was filled with a luscious mix of Artigiana ricotta, chopped Valrhona 55% chocolate, candied orange and lemon, and finished with Sicilian pistachio on each end. It's a perfect sweet ending to an indulgent meal.
Sicilian Cannolo 4/5
Locanda brings the warmth and hospitality of a traditional Italian inn to Singapore, with a menu full of comforting and well-executed Italian classics. Whether you're in the mood for delicious pasta, hearty meat dishes, or an authentic Italian dessert, Locanda delivers a memorable dining experience in the heart of Little India. It is an excellent spot for a cosy meal with friends or family, and I'll definitely be back to try more of their offerings.
Note: This is an invited tasting.
Locanda
109 Rowell Road
Singapore 208033
Tel: +65 9619 2691
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Nearest MRT: Jalan Besar (DT Line)
Opening Hours:
Wed-Fri: 6pm - 12midnight
Sat-Sun: 12pm - 3pm, 6pm - 12midnight
Direction:
1) Alight at Jalan Besar MRT station. Take Exit B. Walk straight down Jalan Besar Road. Walk to Rowell Road. Turn left onto Rowell Road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 5 minutes. [ Map ]